Silhouette variety and size consistency

There's a certain amount of consistency and standardization that customers expect from a retailer, and size is one of them (perhaps the third most important after quality and customer service). I work with measurements every day, and I've done a lot of research to come up with my size chart (which works well for many Indian women), so I'm not representative of an average shopper. However, I certainly can understand the frustration (and confusion) in having to try on different sizes for different styles all in the same store. 

So what's the deal here? Why can't us designers get it right? Well here's the thing: we're under pressure to provide a variety of silhouettes to suit different body types, but our size chart remains the same because we too crave a certain consistency. 

Let me illustrate. Take a look at this shirt style below called Casual Thursday. 

Casual Thursday is a a shapely, fitted shirt and the model is wearing a size 2. If a woman who has a bust measurement that's an inch larger than a size 2 tried this same shirt, she'd find it very hard to move her arms. A style like Casual Thursday looks great on women who are evenly proportioned (doesn't mean then all have to be a size 2, just that their proportions need to be similar to our standard sizes).  

Now look at this draped style, aptly called Dolman Drape. 

This silhouette is designed to be worn loose at the bust and fitted at the low waist area. It's the same size 2 model, and you can see how this top adds volume to her torso, making her hips look narrow in comparison. This style works well for women who are flatter at the bust and/ or wide at the hip. If a woman who had a bust measurement of size 4 wanted to try on a Dolman Drape in size 2, she would have no problem because it's loose around the bust anyway. In fact, even a woman with a size 6 bust could wear this silhouette, if her waist and hip measurements were closer to a size 2. 


Now our final silhouette for this case study: Draped Shirt. 

Draped Shirt is tailored around the bust, but loose around the waist. The model is wearing a size 2, but let's say a woman who had a bust that corresponds to a size 2 and a waist that was closer to a size 4 tried this on, she'd have no problem carrying it off. 


A customer who has a bust of 35" and a waist of 26" would wear a size 2 in Dolman Drape, but a size 6 in Draped Shirt.

So long story short: our size chart is standard, but each silhouette has a different shape. You should definitely be suspicious if you shop at a store where all the clothes that fit you have the same silhouette but different size labels. However if different silhouettes that fit you have different size labels, that's just because your body measurements can't be categorized easily into that brand's standard size chart (not a bad thing- it just means you're unique)!

And in case you're worried that this is all so complicated, look on the bright side: once you figure out your body proportions, you'll be in a much better position to assess which silhouettes flatter you the most!

Knitorious!

Up until a few years ago I was a woven-fabric snob; I thought knits looked too casual and they were appropriate only for bed or the gym. I didn't have the exposure to knits from a young age like I did with woven fabrics, so I never knew that they could be draped into stylish silhouettes. I also didn't know that knits come in fibres like modal, viscose and excel- all of which have the sheen and drape of silk, and at the same time that inherent casual look of a knit that is often needed to make a dressy outfit look effortless.

So when I wanted to make knit garments in-house, people told me I would need to hire a tailor who knew how to handle knit fabric, I would need a couple of additional machines, and that procuring fabric in small quantities would be a pain. But every doubt I conveyed to my production team just made them more motivated to overcome these challenges with our existing machinery! We bought different needles for our machines, reduced the tension while tailoring, and got some sample fabric to experiment with. I didn't want to buy a flat lock machine until I was sure we could handle knits and make the garments in-house, so I was keen on making our first sample with our single needle lockstitch machine and the overlock machine. 

I always knew I had a talented production team, but I didn't know the kind of magic they could make together until they produced this knit sample! 

I can barely contain my excitement! This means that once I buy a flatlock machine we can do all kinds of draped silhouettes in knit fabric, and I can look into using striped fabrics or getting mud-resist block prints done on the knit fabric. How cool would a draped, block printed knit top look with one of our dhoti pants?

Here's to my amazing production team, for doing what many said is not possible!

My current obsession: maxi dresses

It all began when a friend of mine suggested the idea of a maxi dress, and I designed one for the Spring 2010 collection in an ikat fabric.

Sangeetha Maxi, Spring 2010

The Sangeetha Maxi sold well. It had a low cut neck and a low back with straps criss-crossing from the shoulder to the back empire level. I ended up getting one for myself only after all the fabric was over- which means I couldn't order a special piece for my length. I got one anyway (yes, out of sheer greed because I had to have one) but never wore it more than once because it was too short for me.

Perhaps that's why I had to design another one.

My second maxi dress was Feather Maxi, an ajrakh printed maxi with a lot of flowing fabric around the knees and ankles.

Feather Maxi, Summer 2011

I ended up over-ordering fabric for this one (one supplier completely disappeared after delivering 10 out of 100 metres, so I placed an order with another supplier for the same print. Two months later, the first supplier re-emerged from hiding and supplied me the balance fabric, leaving with me 200 metres in total from both suppliers)! But it turned out to be a blessing in disguise because the style did well, and I finally got myself a longer version that I wear very often.

I loved the Feather Maxi so much that I repeated the same silhouette in a colourful ikat fabric this summer.

Feather Maxi, Summer 2012

I just got myself one of these as well, and I'm wearing it today as I write this. I never thought I'd be into long dresses a couple of years ago... and now I resist the urge to wear them every day! I think they are stylish, incredibly versatile, and the fabrics that I generally use (handwoven or block printed) translate really well into maxi dresses.

I'm tempted to make another one for the Monsoon 2012 collection. This time, I thought I'd make it more appropriate for a formal evening occasion (the Feather Maxi dresses work best as day-time or informal pieces because they are cotton and relatively modest). I was thinking of sticking to the same silhouette of a fitted empire, but playing with the neck line and back. Below is a muslin sample of what the style would look like, and I was thinking of making it in a printed silk fabric (perhaps indigo and red, but muted because I'll use natural dyes).

The muslin sample for Night Stars Maxi, Monsoon 2012

Tell me what you think of Night Stars Maxi for the Monsoon 2012 collection!

Making Brass Tacks happen: K. Razia Begum

When I first met Razia I couldn't believe she was a production manager at a large factory, responsible for over 500 tailors. She is petite, slim, and soft-spoken. She came with a strong recommendation from a family friend, and when she joined Brass Tacks as a production manager I realized that she had some great management techniques (I'm still learning from her). She's good at creating a sense of community among the production team members, and she manages to get good work out of people without breathing down their necks. We asked Razia a few questions so you could get to know her better, and here are some of her answers.

Did you always know you wanted to be in the garment industry?

My grandmother used to stitch all our clothes when I was small. We didn't have a machine- she made every piece by hand and I used to spend hours watching her. I knew then that I wanted to do something involving "hand work". I studied Chemistry, thinking I could work at a leather institute. But after I graduated I ended up taking a part-time tailoring job and there began my journey into the garment industry. 

How did you make the shift from tailor to Production Manager?

When I first started tailoring I was happy to be told what to do. I was intimidated by the idea of coordinating with other tailors and telling a team of people what to do. But soon my supervisors realized that although I knew tailoring, my strength was in realizing how the garment is pieced together. I got promoted to the level of a supervisor and every year I was shifted to different sections of the factory (embroidery, tailoring, fabric washing, etc). Before I knew it, I was the Assistant to the Production Manager and responsible for achieving production targets set by the Manager. 

Didn't you worry that working at a small company like Brass Tacks might seem boring after working at a large factory?

Well actually, I wanted a job that was less demanding because my kids needed me at home. But Brass Tacks has been challenging in a different way- there is far more variety in styles and fabric here and the garments are technically a lot more complicated than the shirts and pants we made in the export factories. By the time I left my previous job, I would see a garment once during the cutting stage, and then again a few weeks later at the quality checking stage. Here at Brass Tacks I have to be involved at a hands-on level everyday. It's far from boring here. 

What do you like about working at Brass Tacks?

The exposure to so many different styles, and being a part of the entire design process - from sketch to final product. I also like that we have a close community here- we're all friends and it's fun to come to work when everyone is so close and friendly with each other. 

What do you do when you're not working?

I spend time with my family, I watch a bit of TV to unwind in the evenings, and I also cook. My Biriyani is really good. 

Do your children like working with their hands?

They both enjoy art and craft-making. 

What dreams do you have for your children?

I want for them what they want for themselves. Sajitha, my daughter, wants to be a software engineer, and Haris, my son, wants to play professional Cricket. I'd really like for him to get a stable job and play Cricket on the side for a while until he's sure that he can do it full-time. 

Where do you see yourself in 5 years?

I'd like to start my own business, making men's shirts.