Anxiety Over Raintree

As the date of my exhibition in Bangalore approached, I felt anxious and nervous and I could feel a weight in my chest. I've always had a gut feel that Brass Tacks would have a lot more takers in Bangalore than any other city in India, so this exhibition was so much more important than the costs and sales involved for this one-time event. For me, the exhibition represented the potential for Brass Tacks to succeed outside Chennai.

I spent a lot of time last year trying to find a boutique in Bangalore that would retail Brass Tacks. But lately I’ve been feeling that for a brand like mine (bridge brand, between mass produced and high-end), retailing in small numbers at boutiques isn’t the way to go. When I heard from a few other designers that Raintree in Bangalore was a great place to have an exhibition, I jumped at the idea. This was a chance for me to really see how Brass Tacks is received in Bangalore, and it could be the initial steps that lead to a franchise or a branch in Bangalore.

My exhibition was on Friday and Saturday of last weekend. Low on sleep but high on nervous energy, I had set up the place the day before with help from my sales associate and family in Bangalore. Friday's sales went well, and Saturday was fantastic with a gap of only 15 minutes in the afternoon when the trial room was empty. Next time I'll have to stay for Sunday!

It was interesting to see which styles flew off the shelves and which ones didn’t elicit much of a response. I had chosen styles that were very popular in Chennai but clearly there are differences in taste across cities. Honey Dress and Sangeetha Maxi were very popular, but only a few pieces of Black Orchid and French Parfait sold. I'm really not sure why but I need to figure that out.




Organizing an exhibition is a lot more lucrative than retailing in someone else’s boutique, but it’s a lot more work too and I couldn't have managed without all the help I got from family and friends. My cousin helped me with billing and accounts on both days, my Aunt and Uncle gave me their car and driver and helped with all the packing after the exhibition was over, and my Aunt sent lunch every day for us! I am also very grateful to all the people who sent their family and friends in Bangalore to my exhibition- thank you!

So while I still have family in Bangalore, I'm planning my next exhibition! Not sure whether to have one in December (may be too cold in Bangalore for Brass Tacks clothes) or February (right before the weather starts getting warm). I guess this is the right time to start designing for a larger audience and make sure my collections work in other parts of the country.

My Defense

It’s always hard for a designer to receive negative feedback about her creations, but since my business depends on how women perceive my brand I try very hard to take a few deep breaths and listen to feedback and advice.

But then there are times when I receive criticism for changing Indian culture, or succumbing to “western” culture, or promoting a certain look that is anti-feminist. Recently I was told that my clothes promote a look that is anti-women.

When I started Brass Tacks I was very clear that the reason I needed to design cosmopolitan (or “western”) silhouettes is because a lot of younger women don’t wear sarees everyday. The goal was to sustain and hone the skills used in handloom weaving, but to find a market among a younger generation in the form of stylish clothing. But while I receive good press about using handloom fabric, I am also judged for making garments that do not work for older women’s bodies, or for making garments that are too western for our culture. (Incidentally, last year I made a halter dress with a low back for my Monsoon Collection and it flew off the shelves. To me this is proof that the taste and demand for evening dresses exists already; I’m just making it in fabrics that are normally reserved for sarees).

And as for calling my designs anti-women or anti-feminist, I can’t explain how much that hurts. I’ve met so many people who think that a feminist is essentially a man-hater and I’ve spent hours trying to delicately correct their misconception of feminism. Now I need to watch out for people who think I’m a woman hater?

Okay maybe woman hater is a bit of an exaggeration, but one woman told me that my silhouettes are made for an androgynous figure and she added that a lot of younger women are doing whatever they can to achieve that look. Since when did full busts that need darts and empire lines or extra gathers at the lower back to give room for full hips fall into the category of androgynous? An androgynous look may have been an appropriate description for women’s trousers decades ago when it was new and scandalous, but to describe women’s figures as androgynous is either an insult or a reflection of a high and homogeneous standard that all women’s bodies must conform to.

At this point I’d like to add that Brass Tacks trousers that actually have some waist to hip ratio unlike many international brands that expect women to have a straight body from the waist down, and those trousers are worn by women of all ages. I am all about curvy- in fact, curvy brings out the shape of the clothes even better and the shape and fit of the garments is all we focus on at Brass Tacks.

Sure, many of my silhouettes work under the assumption that a woman’s waist is smaller than her bust or hip, but is that a bad thing? Every brand needs to take some position or define its niche in order to distinguish it from every other brand out there. Maybe I should expand my line and work in a variety of silhouettes, but until then my brand is not meant for androgynous women. It is meant for young, confident women, many of whom want fitted clothes. You only need to look at old school bollywood actresses like Zeenat Aman or ancient Indian art like the sculptures at Khajuraho to see that slim waists with curvy busts and hips were in back then too.

Women come in different shapes and sizes and we have always been compared to some “standard” of beauty which is why so many women are sensitive about their body weight and appearance. Some women don’t hold weight and others may not have the time or the money to look after their health. I say that every time a new brand caters to different body type, it’s a celebration of women and the different forms their feminine figures can take.