Goodies I like: Krya

I've never written a post promoting a non-craft product before, so that should give you an idea of how fascinated I am by Krya. A few months ago I met Preethi and Srinivas, partners at Krya and committed to environmentally sustainable living. Both have business degrees with years of experience marketing consumer goods with Johnson & Johnson (relevant information because their years of experience reaching out to a mainstream consumer audience will help them market their environmentally sustainable products to a wider base).

Preethi and Srinivas gave me a pack of Krya, a natural detergent made from organic soapberries, to use on Brass Tacks fabric. Now when I say "made from", I don't meant hat soapberries are one of the main ingredients. Krya is literally 100% crushed, dried, soapberries packaged nicely and sold with a pouch for easy use in our urban lives. I did a few loads of laundry with Krya at home, hand-washed some indigo-dyed fabric with it, and when I figured that it did a fantastic job of deodorizing fabric I washed some old silk fabric that was starting to smell of old cupboards. I love this product, and what I love even more is that Preethi and Srinivas have taken the time to think how soapberries can be used by an urban population (unlike many environmentally sustainable goods that are actually hard to sustain if you're working and don't have the luxury of full-time domestic help).

In the past I've always recommended this liquid soap called Genteel to my customers at Brass Tacks for washing handwoven and hand-dyed or hand-printed clothes. At home I'd sometimes use shampoo on silk clothes instead of dry-cleaning them because.... well, what's good for your hair should be pretty good for your clothes, right? Krya is a better alternative because it's even more gentle than any shampoo, and something about its properties ensure that fabrics retain their colour and lustre.

Dry soapberries. There's a large organic farm full of soapberry trees from which Krya sources its ingredient.

Here's how to use Krya, and you should if you're interested in preserving the life of any garment/ fabric/ sari that is handwoven or handblock-printed or vegetable-dyed.

1. Empty the contents into a bottle so that moisture doesn't get to it easily.
2. The powdered soapberries come with 2 cloth pouches, and I recommend that you use a rubberband to keep the pouches with the bottle (rubberband around the waist of the bottle, pouch tucked into the rubberband).
3. When washing your clothes, take a tablespoon of the powder and put it into a cloth pouch. Tie the pouch so that the powder can't come out easily.
4. If you're washing the clothes in your machine, put the pouch in the detergent drawer. If you're washing it by hand, put the pouch in your bucket.
5. When your laundry is done, empty the contents of the pouch out (preferably into your potted plants) and dry the pouch before tucking it back into the rubberband on the bottle.

I think what fascinated me about Krya the most is that the crushed soapberries (which to the unacquainted eye looks like a brown potpourri mixed with mud) actually lather in water. Not everyone likes the smell of Kyra, but I absolutely loved that fruity smell (sadly, the clothes don't really retain the smell) and it's amazing to see how that brown matter can clean white clothes.

 Crushed, dry soapberries. The stuff that Krya is made of.

You can buy Krya online here.

Get Going with 2012

In Groundhog Day style, every few months I find myself in the same situation. I'd like to think I'm getting better at detaching myself from the situation; looking at it as a blessing in disguise and a chance to learn and improve. There are also those rare moments when I'm detached enough to find it amusing. The situation I'm referring to is staff turnover at the store, at a time when things are chaotic at the production unit or at a time when I'm working on a big project.

In 2009 it was right before my wedding, then in 2010 during a weekend anniversary getaway (we shortened it to a day trip). In 2010 it was right before my Bangalore exhibition and a couple of weeks ago it was right when I was shifting to a new workshop and launching the Winter collection at the store. Rain doesn't pour for nothing, right?

Last week on the 30th, I woke up to read an email from my new store manager saying she wanted to resign.  I spent the better part of that day just calling up recruitment agencies, friends, and contacting people who had mailed me their resumes before. That afternoon I found my new store manager. It was a total Booyah moment, and it put me into a temporary deluded state that I could solve any problem that came my way. (Keep it humble, Anaka, those delusions always get you into trouble). I came crashing down a few days later when another sales associate who was supposed to join on Saturday called to say she won't be able to join after all. Back to hunting, calling, interviewing....

Strangely, this situation is a bit different this year. Maybe I've finally accepted that this is a big part of running a business (holding onto tailors and holding onto sales staff are both hard), or maybe I'm just naively hopeful in the way that most people are at the beginning of the year! So many awesome things are in the pipeline for this year, and that excitement is carrying me through this phase of staff turnover. Besides, I had forgotten how fun it is to spend the whole day at the store, meeting my wonderful customers and helping them find cool clothes to wear. 

Anyway, enough about me. We've got a new line of knitwear coming up, a Spring collection on the way, an inspiring Brass Tacks woman in mind for a creative shoot, and the much awaited online store. Let the year begin already!

Productivity Breakthrough - II

I've been spending a lot of my driving and eating time (and some of my sleeping time) thinking about new ways to motivate people. In particular, I need new ways to motivate my tailoring staff. Our production levels are low partially because the garments we make are complex (darts, french seams, pin tucks and pleats, zipper details, slippery fabric that's hard to handle), but I often have a sneaky suspicion it's also because there is no sense of urgency at my workshop. In other words, there is nothing to lose if a tailor were to stitch a garment slowly because they are paid a monthly salary rather than a piece rate fee.

A few months ago we tried this system of making a monthly chart with every tailor's name on it and the points they earn from garments. It had a great effect on productivity initially- tailors could see how many points they were earning everyday and they could also see how many points their peers were earning. I felt high on life, wrote a blog post about it and gave myself a pat on my back. I know, that last one was really uncalled for, because after a couple of months productivity started dropping again. Absenteeism, lack of team work, and one departure from the team left the tailors who were showing up to work feeling less motivated.

So in September when I had to launch my Monsoon collection at my store in Chennai and send clothes to Mumbai (where we are retailing at Sanctum), I knew something had to be done about productivity right away. Plans of shifting to a larger workshop, hiring more tailors and increasing our production capacity were in the pipeline but still a few months away. I was out of incentive-based ideas, so I tried my all-time favourite backup strategy: complete honesty. We had a staff meeting during which I explained how important this business is to me- it's so much more than the money, it's about doing something well and creating a brand that we really believe in. I told them how lucky I was to have them as a part of my team and that each one of them was an artist in sewing and fabric handling. Finally, I told them about the pressure I was facing: launching the Monsoon collection late would mean poor sales in September, and not delivering those pieces to Mumbai might mean losing that account.

When I told them we had to produce 500 garments that month, I wanted them to give me their word that it would happen. I hate playing the role of a school teacher or a cop- walking around all the time to make sure everyone is doing their work and doing it on time. So I wanted some assurance from them. I offered to pay double their wages for overtime work, and sponsor meals for those who came into work by 7am or stayed at work past 8pm. I also put up a sign on the bulletin board with a tracker chart to show where we stood everyday with respect to our goal (and I offered a small token bonus if we reached our goal- this is over and above the overtime pay and meals compensation).

I got their assurance by the end of the meeting. Some were more reluctant than others- the general feeling was, "I'll work hard and try my best, but I can't promise anything". Energy levels the next few days were high, and I started relaxing. I spent time away from the workshop and didn't pay close attention to the production tracker. On September 13th I took a look at the tracking chart and flipped when I saw the cumulative number: 139! How were we supposed to reach 500 garments if they hadn't touched 250 by the middle of the month? I asked the team what was going on, and how they could give me their word without making a sincere effort towards their goal. Again I heard the same thing: "We're trying our best to do what we can within work hours". And although I completely understand where they are coming from, because I remember all too clearly what it was like to be just another employee in a company, I lost my temper. How could they expect to jump up from 350 garments a month to 500 with all other factors staying constant? Working longer hours had to be a part of the plan to achieve that goal! I stormed out, afraid of saying something that I would regret later.

Things really changed from that day on. Tailors took shorter breaks, they worked overtime, and really pulled out all the stops to reach our goal. We ended up having more than 5 absent days (across the entire team), and I did end up spending a lot of money on production that month just to sustain their long hours. But reaching 500 was such a sweet reward- both for the team and for myself!

I made a graph (I majored in economics, I'm allowed to do nerdy stuff like this) to see how things changed after my tantrum on September 13th. Not that getting upset should ever be a solution to a problem, but it was a way to communicate how much I depended on their cooperation and production did increase quite steadily after that.

Our celebrations included cutting a cake (of course the guy at the cakeshop couldn't spell "Thank You", giving me another opportunity to tell my staff how the little details are so important) and I braced myself for another awkward thank you speech (awkward because I'm always so conscious of my atrocious Tamil while talking to my staff). But halfway through my speech, as I was thanking them and telling them how much this meant to me and how it really re-affirmed my faith in our ability to work as a team I realized that my Tamil really doesn't matter with them anymore. Sure, there are times when I'm trying to explain something complex and my production manager has to step in to translate for me, but what counts is that they get me. They get why I started Brass Tacks and what the company stands for, and why this is so important to me. And for them to put in that kind of effort because it was important to me and the company- that was really moving! I didn't need to articulate that perfectly in Tamil for them to see my gratitude.

Clamp-dyed Ocean Blouson

I wrote a post a couple of months ago about Ocean Blouson Dress, a style made from clamp-dyed shibori fabric by 2up2down. I recently asked Namrata of 2up2down to send me photographs of the clamps so I can learn more about the process.

First the fabric is folded- and there are different techniques to folding, depending on how you want your pattern to unfold. Then wooden blocks are placed above and below the folded fabric and held in place by these industrial looking clamps.

The shape of the wooden block will determine the outline of the pattern that emerges (i.e. a square wooden block will give you squares, a triangle will give you triangles, etc. In the case of this fabric, the yardage was first dyed a golden-green colour. That golden green fabric was then folded and placed under square wooden blocks, clamped down tight onto the fabric. The fabric then gets dyed a burgundy/brown – and this whole time the fabric is still folded and clamped down with the square wooden blocks.

Finally, after the fabric is dyed and dried, a work of art emerges.

The Ocean Blouson Dress we made from the brown and antique gold/green clamp shibori was a hit, so I couldn't resist ordering more! I had been eyeing this stunning combination of pink and grey shibori for a while.

For this colour combination, the fabric is first dyed pink, then folded and clamp-dyed with triangular wooden blocks. That folded, clamped fabric is "discharged" so that the parts of the fabric that are not under the clamp get bleached white. Finally, the fabric (still folded and clamped) is dyed grey. The end result: a bold design of pink triangles with faded grey and white outlines.

Brass Tacks Living: Sunitha Prasad

A few months ago I met with the folks at PixelKraft to talk about getting an online store done for Brass Tacks. I quickly realized during my conversation with them that they had some valuable suggestions and feedback about Brass Tacks as a brand; in particular the branding and positioning with relation to the product.

Brass Tacks was always meant to be a line of well-cut, well-designed clothes that fit easily into women's every day lives. It's probably my own limitations as a designer that after starting Brass Tacks I stopped thinking about other work environments, and what women need for their daily activity (you see, I do get to wear dhoti pants and a tank top to work every day)! But I'm back on track, listening carefully to customer feedback and keeping a close watch on the market without losing track of the brand philosophy.

The idea behind the Brass Tacks Living campaign is to show how Brass Tacks is worn in everyday scenarios, and we focus on women we admire! Meet Sunitha Prasad, the focus of our second creative shoot in the Brass Tacks Living series:

 

And some more photos made into a collage by the talented photographer, Priyadarshini Ravichandran.

Someone asked me why the entire outfit isn't visible in every photo. The idea behind the shoot is to tell a story- a day in Sunitha's life. Each shot, done is a photo-journalistic style, is meant to capture Sunitha's mood, personality and energy. So if the best shot shows only a bit of her shirt collar, it's fine by us. The focus is on Sunitha- for the clothes we always have our catalog shoot on our collections page.